In an old dining room formerly used to feed performers from the circus next door, the Clown Bar has Oberkampf laughing. Saturne restaurateurs Ewen Lemoigne and Sven Chartier have necessarily updated the space from its down-at-the-heels Belle Époque aesthetic, polishing up the old zinc bar enough to keep everyone happy.
It's a small menu, seasonal and short on descriptions, but the French cuisine on display at Le Clown is, without exception, always on point, frequently innovative, and never disappointing. You might find yourself faced with a pigeon dish, a tranche of venison, smoked eel, as well as more traditional fare like fresh oysters and clams, and, of course, charcuterie. Former Vivant Table Chef Atsumi Sota curates, cuts, and creates with an assiduous eye regardless of the dish, and his food is backed up by a very respectable wine selection.